Paramaribo, Suriname

When you tell people you’re going to Suriname, most have no clue what part of the world you’re referring to. Many erroneously think it’s a country in Africa, or a remote island. In fact, Suriname is a tropical country on the north coast of South America, nestled in between Guyana (to the west), French Guiana (to the east), and Brazil (to the south). And just to make it more confusing, the Surinamese consider themselves to be Caribbean rather than South American, which is understandable given the Afro-European rhythm of the place.

Suriname is one of the most ethnically diverse places on the planet. Take the indigenous Carib Indians (called Indians), add in the descendants of African slaves (called Maroons)who were imported by the Dutch colonizers, then the Indonesian (called Javanese), Indians (referred to as Hindus), and Chinese indentured servants who were brought in to work on the plantations after slavery was outlawed, plus the Dutch who have decided to make it their home, and the people of mixed Dutch/African heritage (called Creoles), and the result is a wonderfully rich ethnic stew that exudes warmth and vibrancy. Unlike other places that are referred to as “melting pots,” but where the different ethnic groups are quite segregated when it comes to socializing, Suriname is a true cultural mash-up, with people of all colors and ethnic backgrounds mixing it up without a trace of self-consciousness or judgment.

While Dutch is the official language, most speak the more informal Surinamese, a local patois made up of Dutch, English, Spanish, African dialects, and the native Carib tongue. Surinamese was originally developed by the slaves so they could communicate among themselves without the slaveholders knowing what was being said.

Paramaribo, the capital, sits on the west bank of the Suriname River and is home to half of the country’s 500,000 inhabitants. Referred to as Parbo by the locals, its historical inner city was made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2002. Here you’ll find classic wooden Dutch colonial buildings, many in need of repair. But you’ll also see a crazy mix of roti shops and other ethnic restaurants, bars, street vendors, lots of cars, stately government buildings, colorful markets, and the occasional palm forest, all making for a lively, eclectic experience you won’t find in many other places. No wonder Parbo is often referred to as “Amsterdam meets the Wild West.”

The incredible ethnic diversity is also reflected in the range of religions found here. Suriname is 27% Hindu, 25% Protestant, 23% Roman Catholic, 20% Muslim, and 5% other. In the center of Paramaribo you’ll find not only the Roman Catholic Kathedraal, the largest wooden building in the world (currently under renovation), but also the biggest mosque in the Caribbean, which sits peacefully next door to the huge Dutch Israeli synagogue.

While the hectic inner city may be the heart of Parbo, the tranquil Waterkant (waterfront) is its soul. It is here that you’ll find the locals hanging out together at all hours, sitting, talking, and listening to music at tables that line the banks of the Suriname River.

You’ll also notice at least one liter-size bottle of the delicious local beer, Parbo, on each table, even in the morning. A great way to spend a relaxing afternoon is to “do as the Romans do,” grab a table, and buy a Parbo Bier. Soon you’ll find yourself being mesmerized by the swift, muddy current of the river in front of you and the sights and sounds of all the smiling, friendly people around you.

For something to go along with that great beer, you should go to one of the many food stalls that line the Waterkant, and order some of the tasty food that is prepared on the spot. You can get everything from Indonesian to Chinese to fried chicken (referred to as ”Ken Tucky” – what would the Colonel say?) to the freshest whole fish imaginable, pulled from the river only hours earlier. It doesn’t get any better than this. And you don’t need to worry about hours of operation, since this place is hopping 24/7.

Just south of Waterkant you’ll find the water taxis, small wooden boats that transport people to Meerzog, on the other side of the river from Paramaribo. If you take one of these, you’ll get a great view of the very modern looking Paramaribo-Meerzog Bridge, as well as an old rusted German warship broken neatly in two, which was scuttled by its captain during WWII.

A little further south of the water taxis is the sprawling Central Market, where you’ll find fresh fish, live chickens (killed to order), piles of fiery hot peppers, exotic fruits, and fresh vegetables.

There is also a huge fish section, stocked with fish just pulled from the river behind the market. Don’t miss the Maroon section of the market, where you’ll see all sorts of potions, bones, feathers, herbs, and other things for medicinal and ceremonial use.

Upstairs in the Central Market you’ll find a vast array of clothing , shoes, and housewares, including many name brands, some authentic and many not. In Paramaribo, designer labels rule, and the bigger the logo, the better!

Speaking of shopping – if you’re a flip-flop fan, you must check out a store in the center of town called Steps. This has got to be the flip-flop capital of the world, with acres of high quality flip-flops at dirt cheap prices.

If you’re in the mood for a little art, check out the Stichting Surinaams Museum inside Fort Zeelandia, built on the site where the first colonialists arrived in the 17th century.
You won’t go hungry in Paramaribo. There is a wide variety of options at very inexpensive prices.

Try Chi Min, considered to be the best Chinese restaurant in town, or Sarinah, for upscale Indonesian food. Or, if you want to explore something a bit further out from the city center, take a cab to the Javanese neighborhood of Blauwgrond, where you’ll find many Indonesian restaurants, including a fantastic one in a pretty setting called Mirosso.

For a quick, cheap, and incredibly tasty lunch, head to Roopram Roti. Be prepared to eat with your hands. But fear not, there’s a big communal sink against the back wall, where you can wash up afterwards.

Grill Master is a good choice for flavorful grilled food. If you’re lucky, and sitting at a table outside, you just might catch a performance by the local, self-taught yogi, who contorts his body in ways you can’t imagine. Just be sure to tip him for such an amazing show.

Since Suriname is not a booming tourist destination (which we think makes it so interesting), there aren’t a lot of places to go to at night, compared to most other capital cities. But there are enough to make for a great night out. Start by going to Café-Bar ‘tVat, directly across the street from the Royal Torarica Hotel. It’s a charming bar with outdoor seating, where both tourists and locals hang out.

If you see an older gentleman with a cape waiting for his table to appear, you’ll be looking at local celeb painter/sculptor Erwin De Vries, who had one of his woodcuts acquired by New York’s Museum of Modern Art back in 1956. He has a special table that he designed and painted, that the bar workers ceremoniously roll out and place on the sidewalk whenever De Vries shows up. If the Parbos aren’t working for you, have a couple of shots of one of the delicious local rums, Black Cat or Borgoe.

Millenium Nightclub, a short cab ride north of ‘tVat, is a fun place to get down with the locals and show off your dance moves.
If you need to walk off that last drink, be sure to go past the Presidential Palace, which is lit up green at night.

While there is more than enough to keep you occupied in Paramaribo for a week, if you have more time, definitely plan a trip to one of the many nature reserves. The vast majority of Suriname is untamed jungle and rainforest, making it an ideal place to explore