Marrakesh and Essaouira, Morocco

Founded almost 1000 years ago, Marrakesh is located in the central region of Morocco, set against the snow-capped High Atlas Mountains. Once an oasis on the camel caravan trade, Marrakesh, a unique blend of African and Moroccan cultures, is still a bit rough around the edges and very different from the more cosmopolitan Casablanca and the more sophisticated Fez. We think that’s what makes it so charming.

The part of Marrakesh you’ll want to spend your time in is the medina, Arabic for the “city,” the name for the vast old walled section of the city. Within the medina you’ll find the souks (markets), filled with endless maze-like alleys of tiny retail stalls selling leather, jewelry, carpets, herbs, spices, olives, textiles, handicrafts, daggers, pointy-toe slippers, antiques, pottery, and just about anything else you can imagine. Be sure to bring your best negotiating skills along with you, because bargaining is not only expected, it seems to be a national sport. Keep your eyes open inside the souks, because you’ll be competing with all forms of people, cars, motorbikes, and donkey carts for walking space.

The heartbeat of Marrakesh can be found in the teeming square of Djemaa el-Fna, just south of the souks. No matter what you need, we’re betting you can find it here – fresh squeezed orange juice, dates, nuts, snake charmers, “dentists” who will extract your teeth on the spot, money changers, and even letter writers who compose for the illiterate.

The square magically morphs into a massive open air restaurant at night, with over 100 food stalls complete with butane gas canisters, trestle tables, strings of overhead lights, and benches. The food is tasty and cheap. You can feast on everything from kabobs and kefta to merguez sausage and harira, a thick lamb soup. And don’t miss the delicious rounds of freshly baked bread.

After a long day getting lost in the labyrinth medina and stuffing yourself on the fantastic food, you’ll be ready to pamper yourself with a stay in one of the best riads (local Moroccan townhouse built around a courtyard) we’ve ever experienced. The Riad Lotus Ambre is just inside the medina, off a dusty unmarked alley, but you’ll feel as though you’ve walked into another world. Tricked out with Bang &Olufsen equipment and with a jacuzzi on the roof, this riad is the place to be for 5-star service and remarkable ambience.

And I’m not talking about the usual 5-star service. I was there during the holy month of Ramadan, and really wanted a beer. It’s tough enough to find alcohol in this predominately Muslim town, but practically impossible during Ramadan. The proprietor attempted to tell me in his limited English how to get through the maze-like medina to the one establishment that was serving, but he knew I didn’t understand. So in his long robes and pointed slippers, he walked with me for the 10 minutes it took to get there. Talk about service!

After a couple of days in Marrrakesh, it’s time to drive 2 hours west to Essaouira(pronounced ess-ah-WEER-ah), a walled port city on the Atlantic. Keep your eyes peeled for sandstorms, a fairly common occurrence in these parts. With its whitewashed houses, sand colored fortifications, and dramatic azure skies, Essaouira looks like a picture postcard.

Discovered by the Phoenicians around the 7th century BC, most of what stands today was built in 1765 by French architect Cornut who was hired by Sultan Sidi Mohammed benAbdallah. Essaouira’s charms have been captured in numerous movies, starting in 1949 when Orson Welles filmed Othello, and more recently with the filming of Oliver Stone’s Alexander.Music is also part of the city’s DNA. In the 1960s and 70s, both Cat Stevens and Jimi Hendrix spent time here, making it part of the so-called “hippie trail. Today, it’s the site of the annual Essaouira Festival of Gnaoua and World Music.

Smaller, more laid back, and less touristy than Marrakesh, Essaouirais surrounded by stone ramparts and turrets, and has a beautifully preserved medina. Unlike the medina in Marrakesh, no cars are allowed in the medina here, so it is much cleaner and more relaxed to walk around. Although the souks sell much of the same merchandise as the souks in Marrakesh, they are much more compact and the negotiating is much more relaxed, often occurring over a cup of tea.

The Place Mouley Hassan, which looks out over the port’s lively fish market, is great for people watching, and has numerous cafes. Our favorite place for drinks and/or food is Taros, which has a wonderful terrace and a very friendly ex-pat owner, Alain Fillaud. Here, as in many places in Essaouira, you’ll be able hear the cries of seagulls along with the call to prayer.

Another great option for food is down by the port – Ali’s fish stall. First, pick your fish or lobster from the many just-pulled-from-the-sea options. Then tell the waiter how you’d like it grilled, and what you’d like with it. Then just go sit at the picnic style tables and wait for your feast to appear. We’ve never tasted fish as fresh as this, and a big meal will barely set you back $10.
After a hearty meal at Ali’s, you may need to walk a bit.

A stroll along the ramparts and turrets is a nice way to explore the town. The port area is also a fascinating place to see. You’ll notice many blue fishing boats, and, depending on the time of day, may see nets being repaired and the daily catch being unloaded and sold.

When it’s time to retire for the night, we highly recommend a riad in the medina named Riad Les Terrasses d’Essaouira. With canopied beds and a gorgeous rooftop where breakfast is served, this riad is a great choice.