Lombok: The Pearl of Indonesia

Lombok, one of the 17,508 islands that make up the country of Indonesia, is often referred to as the “unspoiled Bali.” While only 25 miles away from Bali, Lombok feels like a completely different world. Less touristy, and still a little rough around the edges, this island in the Indian Ocean will charm you with its gorgeous beaches, lush vegetation, and warm, welcoming people.

The most developed part of Lombok is Senggigi, just north of the capital of Mataram. It is here that you’ll find most of the hotels, restaurants, and shops. If you want to be in the thick of things, not a bad place to stay, but if you’d like a more indulgent place to retire to after an active day of exploring, I would highly recommend you check out Qunci Villas.

Although the trappings of Qunci may tempt you to stay within its confines and skip the rest of the island, that would be a big mistake, as there is so much to do and see. Start by taking a day trip to the Gilis, a group of three islands just off the northwest coast of Lombok. While there are many options for getting there, I recommend hiring a boat from Haji Badrun, one of the many helpful locals that live near Qunci.

Haji usually walks the beach in front of the resort. If you can’t find him there, walk up the street just north of Qunci, and you’ll come across the warung (food stall) he runs. You can even ask his nephew Roy, who works as a security guard at Qunci, if he can make the intro for you.

If you go to the Gilis with one of the locals, you’ll most likely find yourself in one of the “spider boats” you see everywhere on Lombok – small, narrow, wooden pontoon boats that they use to fish and to get around. Don’t be alarmed if you don’t see any life jackets on board, or even if your pilot holds his cigarette perilously close to the exposed gas tank.

I experienced both, plus got caught in a torrential rainstorm of epic proportions and still managed to live to talk about it. One thing I have learned by traveling to places off the beaten path – you can’t judge things by the usual standards. It’s so important to be open to new and different ways of living and seeing the world. A fresh perspective is key!

The three Gilis have very distinct personalities. Gili Trawangan (often referred to as Gili T) is the party island, Gili Meno is the quiet one, and Gili Air is somewhere in-between. The Gilis have beautiful white beaches and are big dive destinations, since they’re ringed by coral reefs and you’ll find professional dive centers on all three.

No cars or motorbikes are allowed on any of the Gilis, so the sole form of transport is the pony cart, called a cidomo. Since the Gilis are considerably hotter (and much more arid) than Lombok, cidomos are the best way to clip-clop your way around, and will only set you back around 10,000Rp (rupiahs), about $1 US. The locals refer to the cidomos as their “1-horsepower Mercedes.”

During your tour, you’ll see many beachside bungalows, thatched roof huts, bars, and restaurants. Since it’s too hot to do much else, I highly recommend pulling over and enjoying a cold Bintang (the name of the local beer, which means “star”) at one of the beach bars.

I was struck by how laid-back the whole scene was, but then again, magic mushrooms are legal here, and can be found on many restaurant menu boards. When in Rome…

The Monkey Forest, just east of Mangsit, makes for another great day trip. But before you go, be sure to stop by the vast Morning Market to stock up on peanuts, and walk among the vendors selling everything from produce, tobacco, and spices to textiles, meat, and chicken.

Once you get to the Monkey Forest, you’re in for a real treat. Although the monkeys live in the wild, they are used to being around humans, and are very friendly. Put a few peanuts in your hand and hold it out flat, and next thing you know, a monkey will be delicately plucking peanuts from your hand, one at a time, and so gently, you’ll barely be able to feel the little fingers.

You’ll see everything from wise-looking older monkeys to babies being nestled in their mother’s arms to young monkeys trying to get up the courage to approach you on their own. Truly an unforgettable experience.

One of the most enjoyable things in Lombok was simply jumping into a bemo and going into Senggigi or other nearby areas. While most tourists opt for taxis, the bemos are the best way to meet the locals, soak up the local culture, and save a lot of money on transportation.

Bemos are converted pick-up trucks, and are how the locals get around the island and transport goods. You negotiate your price ahead of time, then jump into the back. The bemo continues to pick up people until it is full (6-8 people, depending on how much they’re hauling). If a bemo doesn’t stop for you, it just may be, as I saw on one occasion, that there’s a cow riding in the back!

Lombok’s beaches are spectacular – vast, crescent beaches that go on as far as the eye can see, with towering palm trees and water as blue as the sky. I happened to be walking along a stretch of beach in Senggigi on a Sunday, and stumbled upon a local scene.

Since people here work Monday through Saturday, Sunday is the day for them to take their families to the beach. I saw hundreds of kids, many of them naked, playing in the ocean, while many of their mothers went in fully clothed, to preserve their modesty. (Unlike Bali, which is Hindu, Lombok is Muslim like the rest of Indonesia.)

If you find yourself here on a Sunday and are feeling hungry, stop by one of the many food stalls, grab some chicken skewers a Bintang, sit down on the straw mats with the locals and enjoy!

Speaking of food, there’s no shortage of tasty options in Lombok. Qunci Villas has exquisite food. Warung Menega, just south of Senggigi, has tables on the beach and the tastiest grilled fish in town. Other good beachfront restaurants in Senggigi include The Office, a laid-back ex-pat haunt just behind the Art Market, complete with a big screen TV for sports fans; The Quake, next to The Office, with an upper level that has a welcome breeze; and Café Alberto, further down the beach but with its own bemo to transport you there and back.

There are also numerous places to eat and drink on the main drag in Senggigi. Restaurant Taman offers WiFi in addition to tasty seafood and Asian dishes. The Square and Asmara are also good choices. For drinks, try Happy Café or Papaya, both of which have live music and happy hours.

If you have the time, definitely venture out from Senggigi. You can hire a guide and driver to take you south toward Kuta. On the way, you’ll pass through the capital of Mataram, filled with cidomos jockeying for space with motorbikes and bemos.

Once you get past Mataram, you’ll start to see lots of fields filled with peanuts, soy beans, corn, and chili peppers. In fact, “Lombok” means “chili” in Indonesian, and you see them growing everywhere on the way to Kuta.

Soon you’ll arrive at Banyumulek, the main pottery center in Lombok. Here you can see pottery being made and decorated by hand. Stop by the Rismunika Astuti Art Shop for export quality pottery.

Next, you’ll come to the town of Sukarara, where you can watch women doing traditional weaving on backstrap looms. This technique has been handed down for generations from mother to daughter, and yields beautiful colors and patterns, often interspersed with gold thread for accent. You can buy the finished sarongs and belts at any of the shops here.

Lombok’s indigenous people are Sasak, and make up about 90% of the island’s population. While many Sasaks have embraced more modern ways, there are some villages that have maintained the old ways. Two of these places, Sade and Rambitan, are just north of Kuta and worth a visit. The traditional Sasak village is surrounded by a wall and has bamboo houses with floors made of compacted cow dung. They have a thatched roof, a fireplace, and usually are windowless. Each village has rice storage barns that sit on stilts to keep the rodents out.

There is an active volcano in central Lombok called Mt. Rinjani, more than 12,000 ft high and with a stunning crater lake. Many visitors hike up to the summit and back, which can take anywhere from 12 hours for the “instant gratification” tour to 5 days, depending on your route and pace. I was tempted to do it until I met 2 travelers from Australia (who looked quite fit) who had just returned. One look at their faces and a few minutes of conversation, convinced me otherwise. A bit too much work for this guy! Another Bintang, please!

Lombok is a surfer’s paradise, with plenty of great waves breaking on the abundant reefs. While Kuta, on the south coast, is the most famous surf destination on Lombok, you’ll also see surfers catching waves along the west coast up near Mangsit and Senggigi.

While walking along the beaches, you’re sure to be approached by people selling their wares – pearls, brightly colored sarongs, bootleg watches, and the like. While persistent, they are respectful and if you make it clear that you’re not interested in purchasing, they may just tag along a bit to speak to you, but they’ll ultimately leave you alone. They make the effort to learn your name, and if they see you on another day, you’ll be greeted by name. It’s tough not to feel like a mini-celebrity with so many of the locals calling you by name.

You’ll want to pick up some of the brightly colored sarongs and batiks to bring home with you. Dirt cheap, and easy to pack, they make wonderful gifts for the people back home. Just be sure when haggling over the price, you ask for either the “special early morning price,” the “special noontime price,” or the “special sunset price,” depending on the time of day. I found myself being offered these “special” deals quite regularly.

Because Senggigi sits on the west coast of Lombok, the sunsets are indescribable. This may be why watching the sunset seems to be a favorite pastime of locals and visitors alike. There is a huge build up with people of all ages gathering on the beach to get a prime viewing space as the sun begins its descent, followed by exclamations and sighs as the huge crimson ball falls below the horizon. It doesn’t seem to matter that virtually the same show is almost guaranteed the next night, and the night after that. It always seems special, and never taken for granted. Seems like a good lesson here.

Lombok is at that stage where tourism is still relatively undeveloped, which means, now is the time to go. There is an international airport in the works about 35 km from Mataram in central Lombok that will be able to accommodate larger planes. It is scheduled to be completed in 2010. Everyone agrees that when it does, the island will never be quite the same. As the street signs say all over the island, “hati hati” – go slowly, Lombok! We love you just the way you are!