Adventures in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Cambodia, located in Southeast Asia, borders Thailand on the west and northwest, Laos on the northeast, Vietnam on the east and southeast, and the Gulf of Thailand on the south. The geography of Cambodia is dominated by the Mekong River and the Tonlé Sap ("the fresh water lake"), an important source of fish. After three decades of war, peace has finally come to this country, the former Khmer Empire.

Siem Reap gets the majority of tourists because the “mother of all temples,” Angkor Wat, is there. But Phnom Penh, the capital, is far more charming and authentic. There is a vibe there that is similar to the feeling in Prague before it became a popular travel destination, one of anticipation and infinite possibility. Despite years of bloodshed, political instability, and poverty, the people are genuinely friendly, the culture is vibrant, and the place is full of wonderful surprises.

Phnom Penh is located at the confluence of three rivers – the Mekong, Tonle Sap, and TonleBassac. The dynamics that result from this convergence make the river one of the world’s richest sources of freshwater fish. Lined with languid palm trees and waving flags, the riverfront is where the pulse of this city, once known as the “Pearl of Asia,” is located. You’ll see families getting their fishing boats ready to go out or bringing their catches home, vendors selling fruit arranged in beautiful sculptural arrangements, people sitting on the wall, and an unusual form of volleyball, using the feet.

If you want to really experience the local culture, pass up the sanitized, upmarket Raffles Hotel, and book a room at Amanjaya (www.amanjaya.com). With a stunning location right on the riverfront, this is the place to stay if you like to be in the thick of things. Try to get one of the corner rooms that overlook the river, for this is the where the action is. If you’re lucky, you may even get a room with a view of the hair-raising four-way intersection, where cars, trucks, motorbikes, tuk-tuks, bicycles, pedestrians, and even an occasional elephant all jockey for position, without the benefit of a traffic cop, stop sign, or traffic light. Somehow it all works.

Getting around Phnom Penh is an adventure in and of itself. You have many options – walking, taxis, motorbikes, tuk-tuks, and even elephants (in the park at Wat Phnom). We happen to be partial to tuk-tuks, which provide an exciting, open-air form of transportation. But do try your hand at elephant riding. The one that works at Wat Phnom can be seen walking to work early every morning along the riverfront. When he arrives, his handlers hose him down and strap on his shoes, the elephant equivalent to a shower and getting dressed.

Motorbikes are also very popular here. You’ll see entire families riding -- on one bike. We saw a family of six balancing precariously on their bike while weaving in and out of rush hour traffic one day. Fearless.

If you stay at Amanjaya, you may be able to see the pagoda called WatOunalom, dating back to 1443, from your room. A short walk away you’ll find the Silver Pagoda and Royal Palace. The Silver Pagoda’s floor is covered with more than 5000 silver tiles, each one of which weighs more than 2 pounds. Inside you’ll find many precious Buddhas, including a life-size gold Buddha covered with close to 1000 diamonds, the biggest of which is 25 carats. Pagodas are often the places where you’ll see people leaving offerings, everything from fruit to lighting candles to putting raw meat in the mouths of animal statues.

You’ll also see many barefoot monks while in Phnom Penh, since every young Buddhist man is expected to spend time as a monk, devoid of worldly possessions, between the time he finishes school and starts his career or gets married. During this time, he is totally dependent on the generosity of strangers to eat and survive. If you happen to see one burning the traditional saffron robe, it’s because it is forbidden to throw a used robe in the trash.

The street markets are colorful and filled with every form of meat, fish, fruit, vegetables, and housewares. For clothing, jewelry, carvings, and other souvenirs, head over to the Russian Market (PsarTuol Tom Pong), where you’ll find name brands for one-tenth the price back home. While the Central Market (PsarThmei), with its huge dome and four wings chock-full of goods, is a great place to browse, or even have a bite to eat, save your buying for the Russian Market, where the prices are considerably lower.

There are plenty of options when it comes to food and drink in Phnom Penh. Have a wonderful, relaxing, authentic Cambodian dinner right on the river at Goldfish River Restaurant. Or, for a more casual but memorable meal, head over to Happy Herb’s. As you might have guessed from the name, if you order a “happy” pizza, the delicious thin-crusted pizza comes laced with marijuana, which is perfectly legal here. If you’re feeling especially adventurous, ask for a “very happy” pizza. We dare you! We aren’t a big fan of the sterile Foreign Correspondents’ Club. It has great views of the river but is usually filled with boring, stiff ex-pats. Not the reason we travel!

The place to be late night is the Heart of Darkness (or the Heart, as the locals call it). Groups of young, wealthy Khmers hang out at this nightclub, complete with pounding music and strobe lights. Just be careful who you tangle with, because most of the rich locals also bring their bodyguards along.

A trip to Phnom Penh wouldn’t be complete without a trip to the TuolSleng Museum, the former high school where Pol Pot tortured and killed more than 17,000 people between 1975-78. This testament to the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge is particularly sobering due to the fact that each of the prisoners, including many women and children, were photographed. All of the photos, in stark black and white, are mounted on the walls.

Rest in peace.