Travel and adventure
Adventures in Yemen Part 1
Located below Saudi Arabia at the very bottom of the Arabian Peninsula, the Republic of Yemen is one of the Arab world’s poorest countries, but rich in ways that defy the imagination. Sana’a, the capital of Yemen, is both the fastest growing and oldest city in the world. With awe-inspiring architecture, traditional Islamic culture, breathtaking vistas, and the most generous, friendliest people you will ever meet, Sana’a makes you feel like you’ve stepped back centuries in time. Described in the Bible as the land of milk and honey, the place where wise men gathered frankincense and myrrh, and where Sheba made her home, Yemen today remains one of the most magical, enchanting places on Earth. And contrary to the US State Department warnings, it is one of the safest and welcoming places you will ever visit.
Yemen’s capital, Sana’a, has a population of 1.7 million and sits 7000 feet above sea level. The Old City section, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a mind-boggling maze of winding alleys and passageways surrounded by the original protective walls that fortified the city against aggressors. And there were many, including the Abyssinians, Persians, and Ottomans. The Old City is so well preserved that you can walk more than a half mile in any direction and not come across a modern building. You’ll see over 14,000 of the distinctive townhouses, stone and mud brick structures usually 6 or 8 stories high, some dating back to 7 AD, all with unique wooden doors and gorgeous stained glass windows. With 50 mosques still standing in the Old City, it’s impossible to escape the ear-shattering call to prayer that emanates from the stately minarets 5 times each day, echoing off the stone buildings and starting as early as 4 AM.
And Sana’a is just the beginning. Only a half hour drive away, you’ll find jaw-dropping sites like the rock palace Dar al-Hajar, which sits atop a mountain and resembles a giant mushroom. It was built as an opulent summer home for Imam Yahya and his multiple wives, and has stunning views of the fertile valley below. Another stop worth making is the town of Shibam in the Haraz Mountains, about an hour southeast of Sana’a. Dating back to 200 AD, Shibam is another UNESCO World Heritage site and is described as the earliest and most perfect example of vertical construction.
Situated on a mountain above Shibam is the fortified citadel of Kawkaban, which served as a safe haven for residents of Shibam during sieges, thanks to its water cisterns and immense grain silos.
About 6 miles north of Shibam is the perfectly camouflaged town of Thula, surrounded by a mammoth stone wall with 7 entry gates. When viewed from below, it’s nearly impossible to detect the town as it blends so well into the mountain.
Since travel outside of Sana’a requires a permit from the authorities, the best way to arrange excursions is through the proprietor of the Azal City gift shop, Abdellah Swaid. He will customize the trip to your specs, and his prices are better than what you’ll get through a tour guide company. His shop is located near Taj Talha Hotel near the Dawood Mosque. You can call him at 281479 or 00967.733327970 (mobile) or email him at Samcity70@yahoo.com. Oh, and if you happen to come across a young man named Abbas, you’re in for a treat. Not only is he a charming, funny, smart guy who speaks Italian, French, German, and English, he has a wealth of information about the Old City and is more than happy to share it with you.
You may hear that there are no “proper” restaurants in the Old City, and while that may be true, you can eat very well for very little money if you’re willing to put yourself into the mix, and eat as the locals do. There is an abundance of street food, including fried dough, prickly pears, watermelon, sesame cakes, and dates. But one of the best food experiences is the restaurant Houmald Salta, next to the Quat market in the heart of the Old City.
Salta is a delicious stew with meat, lentils, beans, funugreek, and coriander, and is rumored to make Quat even more effective. Salta is the lunch of choice to prime one for the afternoon Quat-chewing session. Be sure to buy your bread from one of the numerous vendors outside Houmald before you go inside to shout your order to the chef, then head up the steep stone steps and wait upstairs for the waiter to bring you your piping hot salta. Although you’ll see only men in this place, don’t be afraid to go in if you are a woman. Yemeni men are friendly and respectful and they will make you feel completely safe and welcome.
Another memorable dining experience is the bustling Kebab Square, located across from Ali Baba’s shop in Souk al Milh. Here you’ll find delicious kebabs being grilled and served at communal outdoor tables along with bread and a tomato and coriander salad, and of course, tea.
If you’re feeling adventurous, check out the stand selling the best tasting fish ever. It happens to be located in the crazy Quat Market (Andad Souk) just west of the dry wadi that runs through the Old City. Enjoy watching the wheeling and dealing Quat sellers and buyers, then buy yourself some spicy fish and some mangoes and enjoy. And if you buy Quat, be sure to buy the small bound bundles rather than the loose stuff. Better quality.
Bread is an important staple in the Yemeni diet and there are no fewer than 40 types available. But the most prevalent one is a pita-style flat bread. As you walk through the Old City you will see many bread-making operations taking place in stalls where you can peek in and see bread being shoveled into stone ovens.
You’ll find a few more tasty dining options just outside Bab al-Yemen, including a restaurant that serves deliciously seasoned rotisserie chicken and another that specializes in whole fish grilled to perfection. Just don’t be surprised when your table is set with a few pages from the local newspaper, upon which your food will be placed in lieu of a plate. Oh, and don’t wait for the knife and fork to arrive, because they won’t. After you pick apart your food and eat it with your hands like everyone around you, just get up and walk to the sink in the back and wash your hands. Remember, when in Rome…
Adventures in Yemen part 2
Comment
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Comment by wanderlust on November 17, 2008 at 2:28pm - I'm so glad to see you feature this part of the world on your site. I think many people have a lot of misperceptions about this region, and your amazing photos and intriguing commentary show how wrong they are. Thanks for setting the record straight! Go Yemen!
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Comment by Proc on October 2, 2008 at 10:19am - What a beautiful city! I especially like the photo of Sana'a at night. You have put together a nice mixture of the people of Sana'a as well as the magnificent structure of the city.
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